You’ve unpacked, the memories are fresh, and your logbook’s up to date. This is the moment most divers are tempted to think, “I’ll deal with the gear later.”
That’s exactly when damage starts.
Cleaning your scuba diving gear after a dive trip is one of the most important parts of equipment care. Salt, sand, sunscreen, sweat and moisture don’t just make gear smell bad; they quietly shorten its lifespan and cause issues that only show up months later.
You should always give your kit a good rinse at the dive centre — no question about it. Most dive shops do their best to provide rinse tanks, and that initial freshwater rinse is an important first step. But the truth is, it’s rarely enough on its own.
At the end of a dive day (or a full dive trip), rinse tanks are busy, water gets salty fast, and there’s usually limited time to do more than a quick dunk. Unless you have the space, time, and airflow to properly wash and fully dry your equipment back at your accommodation, salt and moisture will almost certainly stay trapped in your gear.
That’s why the real work starts once you’re home.
Before giving your equipment a well-earned break until the next holiday or dive season, it’s essential to clean it thoroughly and with care. A proper post-trip clean removes the salt, sand and residue that quick rinses miss, prevents corrosion and material breakdown during storage, and keeps your gear in good shape for when you’re ready to dive again.
This guide is your deep dive into post-trip cleaning: what to clean, how to do it properly, and why it matters.
Start With a Proper Freshwater Soak
The biggest mistake divers make is rinsing everything too quickly. A proper post-trip clean starts with time.
Fresh water needs time to dissolve salt properly. A quick hose-down removes surface residue, but it doesn’t reach trapped salt in stitching, valves, hose ends or internal spaces.
If you can, soak your gear in clean, cool fresh water. This is especially important if you’ve been diving in warm, salty conditions. Let the water do the work rather than scrubbing aggressively, which can actually push salt deeper into seams and moving parts.
Cleaning Regulators After a Dive Trip
Regulators need a bit more respect than most other bits of kit. They mix metal, rubber and precision internal parts, and saltwater will happily exploit any small mistake if it gets the chance.
The biggest priority is protecting the first stage. If your regulator is not fully environmentally sealed, it should never be fully submerged when it’s not pressurised, even if the dust cap is fitted. Dust caps are splash protection, not waterproof seals. This is why, during soaking, the focus should be on allowing the hoses and second stages to soak, while the first stage is only lightly dipped or kept clear of the water.
If you’re rinsing while still at your dive destination, take advantage of having a cylinder available. Properly rinsing regulators while pressurised is one of the safest ways to clean them, as it significantly reduces the risk of water being pushed into the first stage. This initial rinse on-site, followed by proper post-trip cleaning at home, goes a long way in preventing corrosion before it even has a chance to start.
Hose protectors are another commonly missed area. Gently sliding them back during cleaning allows you to flush out salt and moisture that otherwise sits trapped against metal fittings. This is where corrosion often begins quietly, long before anything looks wrong from the outside.
When it comes to second stages, gentle is the rule. Avoid pressing purge buttons if the system is not pressurised, as this can allow water to enter places it shouldn’t. The goal is to soak away salt, not let water in the regulator.
Regular servicing ties everything together. We recommend having your regulator serviced at least once a year, or every 100 dives — whichever comes first. Hoses should typically be replaced around every five years, depending on usage and condition. Servicing isn’t just about performance; it’s about catching hidden issues before they become expensive or dive-ending problems.
Done right, a combination of careful rinsing at the dive destination and thorough post-trip cleaning at home means your regulator genuinely won’t know what corrosion even means.
Cleaning Your BCD (Inside and Out)
BCDs tend to look clean on the outside while quietly suffering on the inside.
After a dive trip, flushing the bladder is essential. Add fresh water through the inflator, swish it around, then fully drain it through the dump valves. This removes salt from inside the bladder where it would otherwise sit, slowly attacking seams and valves. There are
Inflator buttons and dump valves should move smoothly. If they feel sticky or slow, salt is usually the culprit. A proper soak followed by repeated flushing often restores smooth operation.
Before storing, leave a small amount of air in the bladder. This prevents the internal surfaces from sticking together during storage.
For an extra-deep clean, there are also dedicated products designed specifically for BCDs, such as Gear Aid Revivex BCD Cleaner & Conditioner, which can help remove salt, odours and residue while conditioning internal materials. These aren’t essential after every individual dive, but they’re a great post–dive trip treatment, helping to remove built-up salt, odours and residue after periods of frequent diving.
Exposure Protection: Wetsuits, Boots, Gloves and Hoods
Wetsuits and neoprene accessories soak up salt, sweat and bacteria more than almost any other piece of dive gear, which is why they’re often the first to smell and the quickest to degrade if they’re not cleaned properly.
After a dive trip, rinse neoprene thoroughly inside and out. Pay close attention to folds, seams, zips, and ankle or wrist seals, as these areas tend to trap salt and moisture. If your suit smells unpleasant, it’s usually bacteria rather than salt build-up, and plain freshwater alone often isn’t enough to deal with it. Using a dedicated neoprene cleaner, such as Gear Aid Revivex Wetsuit & Drysuit Shampoo, can help break down odours and bacteria without damaging the material. These are particularly useful as a post–dive trip treatment, especially after multiple days of diving.
Drying is just as important as rinsing. Neoprene should always be dried out of direct sunlight, ideally turned inside out first and then the right way round once the inside is dry. Storing neoprene while it’s still damp is one of the fastest ways to shorten its lifespan and degrade flexibility.
Zips also deserve a bit of attention. Sand, dirt and salt easily build up between the teeth, making zippers stiff or prone to jamming. Using a dedicated zipper cleaner and lubricant, such as Gear Aid Zip Care Lubricant, helps remove debris, keeps zips running smoothly and protects against corrosion caused by saltwater and general wear.
A little extra care here goes a long way in keeping neoprene comfortable, flexible and ready for the next trip.
Masks, Fins and Smaller Items
Masks and fins are simple but often overlooked.
Salt crystals love to sit in fin foot pockets, strap buckles and mask frames. After a trip, make sure these areas are fully flushed. Sunscreen residue on masks can degrade silicone over time, so a gentle wash with fresh water (and mild soap if needed) helps keep seals supple.
Cameras, Housings, Dive Computers and Instruments
Underwater camera housings should always be soaked, not just rinsed. A proper freshwater soak is the most effective way to dissolve salt that builds up around buttons, control shafts and threaded areas — places a quick rinse simply won’t reach.
After a dive trip, submerge the housing fully in clean fresh water and leave it to soak for a good amount of time. While it’s submerged, gently operate all buttons, dials and levers to help flush salt out from behind the controls. This step is critical, as salt trapped inside button mechanisms is one of the most common causes of sticking controls and long-term corrosion.
Once the housing has been soaked, allow it to dry completely. Open the housing only in a clean, dry environment and carefully inspect the main O-ring. Any moisture, salt or debris should be removed, and the O-ring stored correctly rather than left compressed between trips. You can store your underwater housing slightly open to avoid compressing the O-ring. Make sure everything is clean, dry and kept in a cool, dry place to prevent corrosion and mould.
Dive computers, compasses and transmitters also benefit from soaking rather than a quick rinse. Buttons, screen edges and mounting points are all areas where salt can crystallise as water evaporates. Charging contacts should only be connected once everything is fully dry, as trapped moisture can lead to corrosion and charging issues over time.
As with all dive electronics, keep these items out of direct sunlight while drying and store them in a cool, dry place. A thorough soak and proper drying after each trip goes a long way in keeping electronics reliable and responsive for future dives.
Drying Your Gear Properly After Cleaning
Drying isn’t about speed — it’s about airflow.
Gear should be dried in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Direct sun may feel efficient, but UV degrades rubber, plastics and neoprene surprisingly fast. Regulators should be laid or hung so hoses aren’t under tension, and BCDs should be partially inflated once dry.
Everything must be fully dry before storage. Storing even slightly damp gear creates the perfect environment for corrosion, mould and unpleasant smells.
Storing Gear After a Trip
Once your gear is clean and dry, storage becomes the final step in post-trip care.
Regulators should be stored loosely coiled, without tight bends in the hoses. BCDs should be kept partially inflated in a cool, dry place. Exposure gear should be folded loosely or hung on wide hangers to avoid stretching.
The goal is to let your kit rest without stress — physical or environmental — until it’s needed again.
When Cleaning Isn’t Enough
Cleaning removes salt and surface contamination, but it doesn’t replace servicing.
If, after cleaning, something still feels off — a stiff inflator, a regulator that doesn’t breathe smoothly, visible corrosion under hose protectors — it’s a sign that professional attention may be needed. Post-trip cleaning often reveals issues that were masked during busy dive days.
FAQs:
Do I really need to soak my gear after a trip?
Yes. Soaking allows salt to fully dissolve, especially in areas that quick rinsing doesn’t reach.
Can I use soap or detergent on dive gear?
Yes, you can use soap or detergent on dive gear, but it must be mild, non-scented, and used sparingly. Harsh household detergents, strong fragrances and degreasers can damage delicate materials like neoprene, silicone and rubber if used regularly. For routine or deeper cleaning, it’s best to use gear-specific products designed for dive equipment, such as Gear Aid Revivex Wetsuit & Drysuit Shampoo, which clean effectively without stripping or degrading materials.
Should I clean regulators differently after a trip?
The principles are the same, but extra care is needed to keep water out of the first stage when system is not pressurised.
How long should gear dry before storage?
Until it’s completely dry — not just surface dry. This can take longer than you think, especially for BCD bladders and neoprene.
Is cleaning enough if I don’t dive often?
Cleaning is essential, but it doesn’t replace regular servicing. Both work together to keep gear safe and reliable.
Final Thoughts
Cleaning your scuba diving gear after a trip isn’t glamorous, but it’s one of the most effective things you can do to protect your investment and your safety.
Think of it as closing the loop on your dive trip. You’ve enjoyed the dives, packed away the memories — now you’re setting your gear up for the next adventure, rather than quietly letting problems develop in storage.
If you ever have questions about caring for your gear, servicing schedules, or whether something needs attention after a trip, we’re always happy to help. You’re more than welcome to email us at support@mikesdivestore.com, a video consultation, or drop by our Chiswick store for friendly, expert advice — whether it’s about your current setup or getting your kit ready for the next dive.
